How to enjoy Palm Springs, California's stylish desert playground

James March

James March

With its sleek modernist homes flanked by skinny palms while craggy mountains rise behind, Palm Springs is visually extraordinary, and it's no surprise that it became something of a desert retreat for pop culture icons like Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra and Marilyn Monroe.

Fast forward several decades, and this balmy oasis two hours east of the hum of Los Angeles* is as seductive as ever. And with its warm climate making it a great winter sun getaway, it's a curiously kitsch spot to escape the chilly north. Here's how to see the best of Palm Springs.

Getting there: find the best fares on flights to Palm Springs from London Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic* as well as deals on escapes with Virgin Holidays*.

Ride the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

The most rapid change of scene in Palm Springs isn't from its airport. Sitting on the west side of town, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway has been hauling wide-eyed visitors two and a half miles into the sky to the 2,596-metre-high Mountain Station up San Jacinto Peak since 1963.

It also boasts the world's largest rotating aerial tram cars, which provide some spectacular, if high-raising, 360° views on the way up.

Once at the Alpine-like top, you'll notice a significant drop in temperature, so make sure you bring a thick jacket. Soak up the magnificent widescreen scenery of the valley and mountains, stroll the short Desert View Trail loop surrounded by evergreen woodland and remember to regularly fill up on water to stay hydrated.

Do a self-guided architecture tour

Few cities in the USA* are as distinct as Palm Springs*. With their sleek lines and butterfly roofs, the houses in Palm Springs are iconic, and it's no surprise that the city has one of the world's largest concentrations of preserved mid-century modern architecture.

If you hire a car, head to the < strong>Palm Springs Visitor Center, itself a Jetsons-esque wonder of mid-60s Desert Modernism, and pick up a self-guided tour map.

From there you can glide around the city's sun-drenched streets and drop by some truly distinctive buildings, like Kaptur Court, the Dr. Franz Alexander Residence and Frank Sinatra's house, otherwise known as Twin Palms.

Sample street food by night

Springs might be a relatively touristy place, but there's a nice sense of community every Thursday evening at the Palm Springs Village Fest.

Stretching for several pedestrianised blocks up Palm Canyon Drive and hosting over 180 vendors, expect to stroll past artisans selling handmade trinkets, artwork and clothes, all soundtracked by local musicians.

Best of all, the north end of the street is reserved for all manner of food vendors that you won't find any other day of the week, so dive into Colombian arepas, greasy burgers, Greek gyros and fiery hot chicken.

Hike in Joshua Tree National Park

Native to the Mojave Desert, wild-armed Joshua trees dot the landscape immediately to the east of Palm Springs and make Joshua Tree National Park one of the most unmistakable of America's 63 national parks.

The trees themselves, the ragged mountain surroundings, the relentless sun and deep blue sky form a seductive palette that's a photographer's dream, especially during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset.

There are three entrances, and the west entrance is best for those coming in from Palm Springs for a day trip. But this arid ecosystem can be unforgiving, so prepare properly with SPF, water and sturdy boots. Also, avoid visiting in the middle of the day due to the heat.

Find vintage boutiques & record stores

One way to escape the afternoon sun is by browsing Palm Springs' smorgasbord of splendid antique shops, especially the ones in the Sunny Dunes Vintage District.

Modmart Palm Springs and the Antique Galeries of Palm Springs all offer a host of assorted bric-a-brac but nothing compares to the labyrinth Sunny Dunes Antique Mall. From porcelain and postcards to books and vinyl records, you could spend the entire day here.

Speaking of records, Gré Records & Coffee is the perfect spot when you want to browse and relax at the same time. Leaf through the booklet of vintage vinyl with an espresso and a bagel at this wonderful, almost-hidden spot in the Henry Frank Arcade.

Spy classic aircraft

Not only does Palm Springs have one of the world's coolest airports (seriously, the departures area is outdoors), flanking the other side of the runway is a fine aviation museum.

Spread across five hangars, the Palm Springs Air Museum largely focuses on military history and has some interesting exhibitions and panels on the Vietnam War, while the majority of the aircraft are kept outdoors.

Notable aircraft include the P-51 Mustang, the Boeing B-17 and, most interestingly, the stealthy alien-like Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk. This last one has its own separate hanger with information about the few pilots who have flown it and the missions it's taken.

Gaze up at the stars

Few places on earth compare to deserts for looking up at the night sky, and the area around Palm Springs is no exception. A veritable blinking carpet of stars unfurls across the heavens every evening, so don't hesitate to leave the city for a night or two of celestial wonder.

Two International Dark Sky Parks (Joshua Tree National Park and Borrego Springs) are located within an hour's drive from Greater Palm Springs, with Joshua Tree Lake RV and Campground a quiet and easy-going spot.

If you have a higher budget, then Sky Watcher Star Tours will provide experienced guides with state-of-the-art telescopes.

Climate in Palm Springs

  Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Maximum daytime temperature °F
55°F maximum daytime temperature in January in Palm Springs55
59°F maximum daytime temperature in February in Palm Springs59
61°F maximum daytime temperature in March in Palm Springs61
66°F maximum daytime temperature in April in Palm Springs66
73°F maximum daytime temperature in May in Palm Springs73
82°F maximum daytime temperature in June in Palm Springs82
91°F maximum daytime temperature in July in Palm Springs91
90°F maximum daytime temperature in August in Palm Springs90
84°F maximum daytime temperature in September in Palm Springs84
75°F maximum daytime temperature in October in Palm Springs75
63°F maximum daytime temperature in November in Palm Springs63
55°F maximum daytime temperature in December in Palm Springs55
Hours of sunshine (daily)
Days with some rainfall
4 days with some rainfall in January in Palm Springs4
4 days with some rainfall in February in Palm Springs4
4 days with some rainfall in March in Palm Springs4
2 days with some rainfall in April in Palm Springs2
1 day with some rainfall in May in Palm Springs1
0 days with some rainfall in June in Palm Springs0
1 day with some rainfall in July in Palm Springs1
1 day with some rainfall in August in Palm Springs1
1 day with some rainfall in September in Palm Springs1
2 days with some rainfall in October in Palm Springs2
3 days with some rainfall in November in Palm Springs3
4 days with some rainfall in December in Palm Springs4

The above guide shows the climate in Palm Springs. Find out more about conditions across the state in our complete guide to the climate in California.

Ready to explore Palm Springs? Browse the latest offers on flights with Virgin Atlantic and breaks with Virgin Holidays.

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Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

James March

James March

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